The Ornatrix by Kate Howard

• Paperback: 272 pages
• Publisher: Gerald Duckworth & Co Ltd (14 July 2016)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0715650971
• ISBN-13: 978-0715650974
• Product Dimensions: 20.7 x 3 x 13.2 cm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Synopsis

Flavia was born with a birthmark covering her face, in the shape of a bird in flight. A dyer’s daughter, she grows up in a little house in the woods, far away from prying eyes. Ashamed of the mark, her mother has concealed Flavia’s face behind a veil all her young life. But on the night before her younger sister’s wedding, Flavia does something drastic, something that will draw her into a much wider and stranger world than she could have imagined: the convent of Santa Giuliana, just outside the city walls of Perugia.There she meets Ghostanza, a courtesan turned widow, whose white-lead painted face entrances Flavia, and whose beauty and cruelty are unmatched. Flavia becomes her ornatrix, her hairdresser and personal maid. But as white-lead paint rots the flesh below it, so Perugia, and Santa Giuliana, is rotten below the shimmer of wealth and privilege. And Flavia is drawn into a world of desire and jealousy that has devastating consequences.

 

Review 

I am always drawn to historical fiction especially set in Italy. after studying Art History at University. The Ornatrix, set in sixteenth century San Fortunato, Umbria in Northern Italy, ticked all the boxes for me.  The narrative is told mainly from Flavia’s point of view, as she is shielded from the world by her mother who is ashamed by the birthmark on her face.  After her sisters wedding she is sent to the convent of Santa Guiliana as a punishment for trying to ruin the day, and there she meets Ghostanza, a beautiful widow, and becomes her Ornatrix; her personal maid.  The other narrative is Gilia la Bella, step daughter to Ghostanza.  Gilia opens up some of Ghostanza’s world to us and the importance of beauty to women of the higher classes.

The Ornatrix is a book about beauty; its importance to women of society,  the lengths women will go to make themselves beautiful and questions just what we see as beautiful.  In reality these are still questions we ask ourselves today which makes this book, and its subject matter, just as relevant today, as it’s sixteenth century setting  . In sixteenth century Italy the aim was for pale skin and lighter hair, but the lead in the make up  poisoned the wearer and destroyed their complexion and made their teeth fall out. This is a contrast to today when it is a tan we aim for that can also destroy the complexion, and cause cancer.

Flavia has been made to hide away from the world due to the birthmark in the shape of a bird on the side of her face.  She has been bought up to feel ashamed of this birthmark and that because of it she is ugly and will never marry, as no man would want her.  I felt great sympathy for Flavia being reminded of her birthmark at every opportunity; her sister is attractive, the singing nuns at the convent are all beautiful, as is Ghostanza.  But it is through Ghostanza that she begins to see how make up could help her.  Ghostanza herself is spoilt, vain and has a terrible temper; the only thing that matters to her is her looks.  She passes on her ideas of beauty to her step daughter Gilia, who is young and susceptible so doesn’t see Ghostanza for who she really is.  Gilia lives a very sheltered life, not aloud out on the streets but kept in the boundaries of her home.  I felt Ghostanza was jealous of her youth and natural beauty and that she had her life ahead ahead of her, whilst she was getting older.

The historical detail of this book was brilliant and Kate Howard had obviously done a lot of research into the period; she really captured the atmosphere and culture of the sixteenth century. Being set in a an actual place I found myself looking it up on the Internet, which brings the buildings and town to life.  The character detail, nuances, discussions and descriptions brought them to life , and there were so many different relationship dynamics that kept the book interesting and entertaining to read.

The Ornatrix is a fabulous piece of historical fiction.  It really transports you to the sixteenth century, with its sights and smells and landscapes.  The subject matter of beauty, and what it is, is a question that has fascinated us for centuries and every century has its own ideas, including today where we still push the limits.  Relevant, compelling, engaging and simply brilliant, grab yourself a copy of The Ornatrix.

 

The Ornatrix is one of the books that I chose to read during my four week break. It has sat on my shelf for over a year calling out to me, and it was well worth the wait.  I appreciate the time you take to read my review and your follows and shares of my posts; you are all fabulous x